Finally a jacket

In 2010 I dyed some yarn for Thomas, It was suppose to become a jacket. I warped it in 2012 and did actually weave it the same year.

The plan was always to make a mi parti jacket, as you can read here.

After that the fabric have been lying in a box waiting for Thomas to make a jacket out of it. He is much better at sewing then I am. But he have been busy… very busy. The jacket have had very low priority. And Thomas could not decide what kind of button to use. He finally came up with the idea that since the fabric was fraying a lot, he would go with pewter buttons. He ordered them from Lionheart replicas.

The buttons have very long shanks so he had to take them down, a lot to make them fit. The jacket have got 67 buttons in total.
He choose to sew them like I this. Using a strip of chamois leather though the hole in the button and sewed the leather strip to the jacket so the buttons are fastened and secured. In Swedish folk costume that technique is used too.

The jacket have go a tablet woven edge on the button hole side to secure the edge. That can be found in both the finds from London and from Tartu, Estonia, during the 14th century. Since the fabric was frying like mad he wanted to secure the seams on the inside. He have therefor used a filler thread to protect the fragile seam.
The whole jacket is sewn with linen thread.

The lining of the button hole side is handwoven linen. That can be found in Italy during 15th century. Anna Attiliani have also found this picture when she did the research for her Manuscript challenge outfit. The neckline have got a thin linen strip. Evidence of that can be found in Queen Margaretha’s golden gown, dated early 15th century,

To achieve the right shape of the chest he is going to make a small padded cushion to use under the jacket. But this is what it looks like so far. I think he have made a great job with that fabric.
/ Maria




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